On tap at Poor Henry’s, voluptuous renegade saison buttresses stylish Hallertau Blanc-hopped Sauvignon grape, gooseberry and lemongrass tartness with tenacious clove sugaring and equally sweet cherry-wined cinnamon and nutmeg spicing. Pale wheat-malted barnyard leathering and light citrus spritz hold up the dry end alongside latent herbal nuances. The blend’s original, insistent and decisive.