Ambitious full-bodied Cascadian dark ale betters the rest thanks to richer dark-roasted chocolate malting and spicier dried fruiting. True, its loud mocha overtones outdo the recessive stewed fruits, but the pine-needled wood char and dry hop bittering penetrate the surface. Black molasses bread, raisin toast, black licorice, ground coffee, Nestles Quik cocoa and chocolate fondue illusions round out the busy mix. Tertiary pineapple, grapefruit, black grape and peach snips hide below.