On tap at Beef Trust, sessionable autumn ’17 pale ale (made in collaboration with Philly restaurant Jose Pistola’s) recalls English bitter with its dewy sweetness, mossy earthiness, musky herbage and vegetal acridity. Lemon-rotted orange tartness and resinous pine hop wisp created mostly by Simcoe-Centennial-Cascade hop trio. In the can, lemony grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering stays zestier and tarter above dewy wood-dried soiling.