ANGRY ERIK VARAISON

On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead – Haledon, discrete ‘fusion’ between contemporary gose and saison weds the mildly citric-salted acidity of the former with the dry herbal barnyard acridity of the latter. Lemon-dropped yellow grapefruit souring, tart orange juicing, white grape tannins and floral daubs align above biscuit-y pilsner malting for crisply clean farmhouse ale.

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