Brusquely complex straw-cleared witbier relies less on stylish coriander-spiced orange peel zesting and more on musky herbal funk, picking up limey lemon rot souring and wispy banana-clove sweetness over its delicate pilsner malt base. White-peppered lemongrass, ginger, fennel and parsley herbage speckle its spryly summertime Citra-hopped spritz.