On tap at Hoover’s Tavern, expressively variegated but blindingly exhaustive flavor-wise, Philippine Ube Halaya yam dessert knockoff brings subtle lactic almond-milked coconut sweetness to vanilla-daubed purple yam adjunct (and a red cherry on top). Yet its sharp orange-peeled grapefruit bittering, with mild pine lacquering and dainty floral-perfumed spicing, peaks higher than its marshmallow-sugared yam jam.