BRONX, NEW YORK

Inconspicuously perched a half-block down from Jerome Avenue’s elevated train tracks in the Kingsbridge section (bordering Riverdale), BRONX ALEHOUSE became a respected roadhouse-styled craft beer landmark upon opening, 2009. Owned by a few disenfranchised Manhattanites not willing to pay high midtown rents, they quickly went north to the upper Bronx to build their humble saloon. And now, Bronx Alehouse boasts possibly the fastest rotating drafts in the city.

A black-windowed frontage with weathered signpost welcomes neighborhood families, local businessmen, young hipsters and out-of-town beer freaks as I journey inside this cozy wood furnished joint during late January ’14 for Sunday brunch. Its red-bricked wood-paneled interior features rustic slotted wood floors, private left dining, 14-stool center bar, antique gas fireplace and several squeezed-in right side tables.

The Rangers and Devils square off for a historic hockey game at nearby Yankee Stadium on one of the four centralized TV’s at the bar as Weezer’s novel pop charmer, “Sweater,” emulates from the jukebox. I quaff a German Wheat Ale, hybridized Vermont brown ale and local IPA on this initial afternoon trip. For brunch, the massive Fried Chicken & Waffles (with honey-buttered Virginia ham and fried eggs) truly sufficed. Bronx Bomber sliders are also a local fave and complementary popcorn gets served to all the happy diners.

During my 2-hour stay, several of the 17 drafts ran dry and got replaced by similarly styled offerings. A long promenade of one-offs, seasonals, specialties, hybrids and oak-aged elixirs crowd the pro-active tap menu (which give interested customers an actual measure of kegged tap beer remaining). 30 bottles and 10 canned beers were also available, including Cigar City Florida Cracker Belgian White Ale.

Ettaler Benediktiner Weizen’s soft doughy buttering draped spritzy lemon zest and orange-dried banana-clove-bubblegum illusions. Long Trail Belgian Brunette brought dark-spiced dried fruiting to the fore but lacked expectant nuttiness. Bettering both, Singlecut Billy Half Stack IPA loaded bitter juniper hop pining atop grapefruit-peeled peach, pineapple, quince and orange briskness. (Full reviews in Beer Index)

Looking for a cool, unassuming vibe at a local metropolitan watering hole, then this here’s your answer.

www.bronxalehouse.com