On tap at Andy’s Corner Bar, straw-hazed Kolsch-styled summer ale balances sour citric zest with pronounced herbal respite. Dry-wooded lemon-bruised grapefruit bittering leads the way as lemongrass, basil and thyme seasoning decorate supple interior. Lip-smacked lemon rind, lemon peel and lemon pit tartness provides mouth-puckering acerbity. A fuller bodied affluence makes this a better bitterer choice than softer stylish competitors.