Elegantly detailed and highly sessionable saison (with billowy white head above straw-paled body) brings farmhouse-styled airborne minerality to herbaceous citric fruiting. White-peppered lemon zest and yellow grapefruit souring seep inside leathery fresh-cut grassing as lemongrass, cardomom, basil and thyme fill out the midst. A terrific collaboration with France’s Thiriez Brasserie.