MIDLOTHIAN, VIRGINIA
Lying west of Richmond in mall-infested suburban Midlothian, EXTRA BILLY’S SMOKEHOUSE & BREWERY became operational in 2001. Visited July ‘06, this freestanding taupe-raised ranch-styled barbecue joint offered left side take-out service, large dining section (with exposed ductwork), and open-air veranda.
A pink pig centers wood-toned column-clustered bar while 2-story windowed brew tanks provided brewer Bill Ehlert’s gritty blue collar bitters, which went well with affordable hickory-smoked pork, chicken, and pizza.
Slightly acidic lemony grapefruit-embittered American Ale, similarly-flavored phenol-spiced citric rind-embittered Bohemian-styled Pilsner and buttery straw wheat-dried Golden Lager please lighter thirsts.
Frisky hop-spiced fig-date-pecan-backed Copper Bock was a step up.
Best bet: crisply spice-hopped quince-banana subtlety Red Ale.