FLYING FISH GRAND CRU WINTER RESERVE ALE

Richer, sturdier Euro version than brewers’ Dubbel counters sharply alcoholic corn-sugared Scotch malt palate and tangy tangerine-peach freshness with dry wheat-chaffed overture before losing steam. Teensy yeast particles in palest gold body fortify clove-coriander subtlety, apricot-banana ripeness and peppercorn tinge by soured orange finish. Retains dry white ale essence but lacks expectant cinnamon-nutmeg holiday seasoning. 2012 tapped version anchored sour lemon, moldy peach and bruised orange tartness to Belgian-like candi-sugared crystal malts above salty-spiced herbal peppering. On tap at Mahwah Bar & Grill, 2016 tapped version differed profusely as Belgian strong ale had murkier mix of champagne grapes, desiccated oranges and banana-dried cloves above its demerara-sugared white wheat spine.

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