On tap at Ambulance, crisply clean, ‘delicately complex’  (and nearly bone dry) farmhouse ale loads acidic lemon rind and grapefruit pith sourness atop lingering rustic-grained pungency and dank herbal hop musk, masking any sugar-spiced melon, pineapple and pear subsidies. Tongue-lashing Hallertau-hopped citric bitterness gains latent black-peppered coriander assertion.