On tap at Ambulance, well-designed pale ale really brings zesty citric bittering to life. Lemony grapefruit-orange tang and subtler tangerine-pineapple-peach-mango illusions come to the fore. Pungent hardwood-floored Amarillo hops stabilize below grassy citra-hopped florality while aspirin-like solvency gains latent acidic sway.