JACKIE O’S BRICK-KILN BARLEYWINE

Satisfying English-styled barleywine lacks exquisite profile depth of richer competition, but its polite caramel malting, brown-sugared raisin sweetness and syrupy molasses sapping ultimately suffice. Light bourbon licks bring mild alcohol burn to dried fruited finish. Latent fig, date and apricot illusions as well as wavered vanilla pudding, butterscotch and gingerbread nuances fill the back end.

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