LAGUNITAS WILCO TANGO FOXTROT ALE

Silken cola-hued ‘robust jobless recovery’ strong ale lacks expectant full-bodied assertion, but not persuasive character. Ashen piney-hopped nuttiness juxtaposes soft-watered cinnamon-spiced floral-fruited opening. Tangy grapefruit, pineapple, cherry and apricot fruitage revs up juicy bubblegum midst. Earthen red and purple grape esters bring mild bourbon-burgundy-port illusions to the surface by soft evergreen finish of limited ’10 release. On tap at Plank Pizza (2016), dark-roasted mocha nuttiness picked up more pronounced earthen hop-charred bittering and less fruit-spiced tangent.

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