Over-inflated connoisseur’s version of award-winning Sawtooth Ale, ‘designed to befuddle silly generalizations about life’ lacks depth. Rich bronze-bodied strong ale counters sweet brown chocolate, butterscotch, and toffee parch with piney hop bittering as well as hastened walnut-hazelnut-chestnut waver. But toasted almond reticence casts astringent shadow.