Emaciated dry-spiced chestnut-hued winter warmer’s understated nature is drawback. Laid-back cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, paprika, and coriander spicing fades into obscure Scotch-malted mildness. Hasty cherry-apple grove wanes as feint banana-bread, cookie dough, and toasted almond illusions receive herbal drubbing.