SAKU TUME

Overreaching Estonian dark lager suffers from murky earthen hop coarsening working against pleasant, if musty, chocolate-spiced burnt caramel malting and ancillary fig-cherry conflux. At its center, molasses-sugared medium body recalls peanut-buttered Mary Jane candy bar, hard toffee and marzipan. But nasty astringency cuts like a knife.

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