Decent 2009 cellar-reserved bottle-conditioned ‘strong wheat beer’ with pleasant citric acidity and surprising mocha tenacity bides time as loud 8% alcohol luster gets heard. Creamy caramel-cocoa-chocolate malts ride above peppery clove-spiced fig-sugared vanilla sweetness and orange-bruised banana tartness. Molasses-like Sugar Daddy keepsake forges doppelbock-like character over musty yeast-creased candi-sugared Belgian ale peculiarity.

Drab sunset-hued Mardi Gras fave fails to impress from its washed-out pale amber hue to its ridiculously inappropriate mildness. Astringent honey-soured caramel malting, musty orange-banana-cherry trickle, phenol spicing, and caraway seeding make for ineffectual Maibock or Helles bock traits.

They call this sweet-scented bock “pride of the North Country.” Golden, smooth and very settling, this is meekly moderate-bodied. Its pleasantness lies in soothing (never bitter) mocha finish and chocolate-coated backdrop. Like most Catamount beverages, it walks the fine line between processed macro and average microbrew. Brewery defunct: 2002.

Impressive ‘continental breakfast lager’ is a fearsome doppelbock and perfect nightcap. Enormous espresso frontage allows hop-roasted ground coffee and baker’s chocolate illusions to expand atop equally compelling chewing tobacco, pine tar, and chicory bittering. Definite caffeine booster sweetened by vanilla fudged interlude and malt-smoked burnt cedar residue.

Frisky whiskey-dashed 7% alcohol depth belies sunny fruit tang and sweet grained base of dry medium body. Lemon rind aftertaste thickens ominous malt liquor-ish barley-maize haze.

Won’t set the world on fire and definitely not the strongest bock available, but pale complexion, watery resonation, dainty malt texture, and lemony maize dryness may intrigue light pilsner fans. I guess Portugal’s forte is still port wine.

Prune hue and texture saturate burgundy richness, candied malt ballast, and sinewy yeast viscosity of excellent multi-dimensional brew. For bock style, lacking intensely alcoholic assertion, but silken buttery flow and medicinal finish will tempt pilsener-lager fans.

Despite viscous bronzed copper dramatics, fleshy yeast sediment, and punctual raisin-date theme, vacuous gauzy fizz engulfs wood burnt earthiness and toasted barley restraint, fading precipitously to metallic sour orange murk. Mild sour ale fans might appreciate its astringency.

Thin amber-hued Vienna-styled bock lager reveals vigorous mash tun scent and dank raisin sourness up-front. Then, roasted barley, toasted malts, sweet caramel, and muted chestnut carry on to sugary maltose finish for restrained cereal grained mildness.

Dramatic ruddy-hazed Bavarian-styled autumn bock defers astringent alcohol density, spoiled orange waft, and blustery wheat backbone to oncoming soured cherry tartness. Red grape scamper, sticky plantain nuance, plus fruit punch melange (red grape, quince, tangerine, wild berries) brighten center. Hefty sugar malting enhances tertiary banana, pumpkin, and prune swoon, scattering barest clove spicing inside creamy viscosity of engrossing off-dry fruit meringue.

Bavarian bock more influenced by toasted barley, roasted chestnut, and sweet husked corn than expected full-on creamy malt thickness. Dry mocha and sweet chocolate coat underside, dissipating abruptly by mildly bitter hop finish. As usual, American bock version has less complexity than most Germans.