Elegant sweet wine effervescence sidles surging caramel-malted prune-fig creaminess typical of most bocks (since they are heavier and more compressed than basic ‘ales’). Fresh-pressed cherry tang, mild grape dryness, and spicy nutmeg pinch inform judiciously hopped alcohol burn, precluding accessibility to junk beer drinkers but curing all pains.

Profound smoked hickory sweetness emphasizes maple wood mouthfeel, peat-y mulch earthiness and piney campfire romp of musty, oceanic-scented, noirish amber bock. But up-front essence lost as foamy flesh-toned head diminishes. Moderate grain thrust squanders honeysuckle nicety, acetous citric snip and docile cherry nip.

Inferior coppery orange bock blunts initial wood chip smokiness, charred hop promise, and sticky tobacco residue for undefined X-mas seasoning. Dried prune, red grape, and bruised orange undertones flatten dull finish.

Coaxing amber-hazed medium body, mysteriously labeled a ‘bock,’ balances disparate sweet and sour tones with mixed results. Initially, mouth-puckering grape parch and bone dry gueuze tartness seem at odds with honey-dipped cracked wheat spine and subsequent tobacco-dried caramel chocolate finish. Soggy earthen wood tone and skimpy herbaceous scant waver.

Sunset-hued bock boasts exceedingly strong burgundy theme. Creamy brown-sugared chocolate-covered raisin sweetness informs malt-thickened full body, packing a warming hard liquor finish that shocks the senses before promptly dissipating. Picture credited to www.ratebeer.com

Taut molasses-caramel-cocoa sweetness given dry-roasted barley backdrop to secure resinously hopped alcohol-burnt bock. Pumpernickel-rye sequel and walnut shelling confirm busy frontage, but sugar water finish cheapens up-front zeal substantially. Still, quite decent for classic macrobrewed old-timer.

Decent amber-hazed medium-bodied wheat bock thankfully loses funky off-putting cider waft as tart citric souring accelerates above grassy-hopped cereal-grained bottom. Floral banana-clove midst wavers, becoming phenol, debilitating cotton-candied almond-marzipan illusions.

Unfiltered unpasteurized copper bock boasts initial plum-prune prominence, bright orange-tangerine tang, and red cherry punctuation well served by barleywine luster. Third passing offers cinnamon-spiced caramel richness underscoring unassuming 6.5% alcohol flow.

They call this sweet-scented bock “pride of the North Country.” Golden, smooth and very settling, this is meekly moderate-bodied. Its pleasantness lies in soothing (never bitter) mocha finish and chocolate-coated backdrop. Like most Catamount beverages, it walks the fine line between processed macro and average microbrew. Brewery defunct: 2002.

Impressive ‘continental breakfast lager’ is a fearsome doppelbock and perfect nightcap. Enormous espresso frontage allows hop-roasted ground coffee and baker’s chocolate illusions to expand atop equally compelling chewing tobacco, pine tar, and chicory bittering. Definite caffeine booster sweetened by vanilla fudged interlude and malt-smoked burnt cedar residue.

Frisky whiskey-dashed 7% alcohol depth belies sunny fruit tang and sweet grained base of dry medium body. Lemon rind aftertaste thickens ominous malt liquor-ish barley-maize haze.

Won’t set the world on fire and definitely not the strongest bock available, but pale complexion, watery resonation, dainty malt texture, and lemony maize dryness may intrigue light pilsner fans. I guess Portugal’s forte is still port wine.