CANANDAIGUA, NEW YORK
Established by former Genesee employees, Dave Schlosser (brewmaster) and Don Cotter (sales), NAKED DOVE BREWING COMPANY opened its doors in rural Finger Lakes-bound Canandaigua during 2010. As the first microbrewery in Ontario County, Naked Dove is situated just down the road a few miles from Canandaigua’s downtown district.
After leaving Genesee, Schlosser gained respect making nearby Rochester’s most famous local beer, Rohrback Scotch Ale, and soon decided to setup his own brewery at a former Napa Auto Parks outlet. Crafting 50-plus different beers since beginning at their beige aluminum warehouse, Naked Dove’s core four include Wind Blown Amber, Berry Naked Black Raspberry, Starkers IPA and 45 Fathoms Porter.
A slot wood-floored pub with yellow walls, twin overhead doors, high ceilings, interesting growler collection and a spacious backroom brewhouse, Naked Dove features a wood paneled seven-tap draught board at its silver top serving station.
On a sunny Friday afternoon in November ’23, my wife and I downed all seven available elixirs. Bettering that, I picked up decadent Imperial Stouts – one aged in Templeton Rye and another aged in Basil Hayden bourbon plus a whiskey-aged Nice & Naughty Christmas Ale (all reviewed in Beer Index).
Flagship Windblown Amber Ale let mossy dew drip from its initial apple-tangerine-pear conflux as phenol hop astringency coarsened against sweet perfumed spicing and caramelized cereal grains given a gluey cardboard edge.
Passive Berry Naked Black Raspberry Ale retained a fluffy Seltzer-like tart raspberry fizz as slight cherry-cranberry-boysenberry riffs and wispy floral spicing flutter towards the blanched wheat base.
Fruitful summertime moderation, Tangerine Pineapple Kolsch, let raspy pineapple-tangerine tanginess and zesty lemon briskness receive a hard-candied glaze over grain-honeyed pilsner malting.
Dryer, denser and semi-sharper than a typical adjunct IPA, Hop Work Orange (conditioned on sweet orange peel) let its lemon-soured navel orange musk consume candied tangerine, fizzy soda pop and orange rum illusions as musty herbal resin nicked the finishing juniper bittering.
Easygoing double dry-hopped IPA, Drinking Zappa, allowed Fruity Pebbles-like Zappa hops to bring mango-passionfruit-pineapple tropicalia to the fore alongside sweet orange-peeled yellow grapefruit tanginess and salted green grapes, retaining a spritzy floral citrus-spiced misting.
Dry wet-hopped lemon rind bittering and sour lime zesting fronted Hopulus Localus, a Cascade-hopped IPA with green tea briskness, light herbal musk, parched pine acridity and light barnyard leathering.
Dry cocoa powdering, dark-roast coffee and Blackstrap molasses fronted 45 Fathoms Porter, spreading charred hop bittering over the preceding.
Anise-dried black chocolate and day-old coffee rode above the soily hop-charred mossing of Russian Imperial Stout, leaving soy-sauced tart cherry and black currant daubs on the molasses-smoked mocha finish.