LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY

Opened for business, October 2011, AGAINST THE GRAIN took over the space Browning’s Brewery used to occupy. Part of the Slugger Field complex along the Mississippi River, its brews have snarky names such as Citra Ass Down IPA, Scotland Charred, Quiet Rye-It, Dilator (oak-aged Doppelbock), Half-Hearted Pale Ale and London Balling (a bourbon-barreled barleywine). I’ve yet to visit this brewery. But below is the review of the now-defunct Brownings.

Visited historic Churchill Downs, June ’04, prior to heading downtown for admirable BROWNING’S BREWERY, located at Louisville Slugger Field’s spacious mall. Browning’s Eileen Martin was one of only a few female head brewers in America (along with Bastone’s Kim Schneider). But Rey Miller took over dutues in ’08, bringing new recipes onboard.

Well-hopped brews seemed to stand out most prominently. Lively citric-honeyed Blonde; caramelized herbal tea-like Red Ale; spicy-bottomed rye-induced ESB; barley-toasted walnut-roasted perfume-spiced Nut Brown; and dark-spiced wheat-cracked moderation Vanilla Cream Ale benefited from crisp hop bittering. Remarkable lactose-sweet, chocolate-coffee-stained, cereal grain-toasted Oatmeal Stout made fine dessert. Go to Browning’s website for current brews.