ORLEANS, MASSACHUSETTS

Coming to life one year after nearby Devil’s Purse, Orleans-based HOG ISLAND BEER COMPANY (with a second newer white-housed Wellfleet location) has created winningly familiar stylistic fare since 2016. Once the local lockup, the historic haunt became Old Jailhouse Tavern before turning into a microbrewery.

Inside a gray shingled cement-floored domicile with sidled silver silo, Hog Island’s large interior includes a two-toned pine top bar, decorative back-walled Winnebago RV with windows and tires, small stage area, several wood tables and chairs, stooled metal tables and white tile ceiling. Brew tanks are to the left. A large umbrella-strewn deck provides outdoor seating.

The right side tap handles below the centralized TV serve proprietary beers ranging from mostly easygoing, slightly mainstream fodder to a seaweed-induced dark ale. Mixed drinks, flatbread pizzas, sandwiches and desserts were also available as my wife and I visited on a bustling Saturday afternoon, September ’24.

Brisk floral-perfumed citrus grazed maize-dried grain rusticity and sweet corn sugaring for Four Reels Pilsner, leaving dank hop astringency on the backend.

Spritzy lemon zest sparked Summer Ale, a moderately hop-embittered light body with mild herbal spicing.

Sourdough breading sashayed thru White Shark Wheat Ale, receiving a light raw-honeyed musk as well as latent corn sugaring.

Flagship Outermost IPA let sunny lemony grapefruit bittering pick up mild spicing to contrast the dry wood finish of this perfectly centrist piney citric West Coast variety.

Sweet dewy peat and mild tobacco crisping engaged Ack Irish Red Ale, gaining lemon-rotted desiccated orange musk.

Dry Chatham Kelp Stout utilized briny oyster-shelled kelp seaweed to contrast caramel-burnt dark chocolate and nutty coffee roast.