“Modern take on Belgian classic” is apropos motto of resolute farmhouse ale. Though not as audacious as indicated, its winningly tweaked formula ulitizes lemon zest, grains of paradise, lemon thyme and lavender adjuncts to counteract embittered black tea resonance. Dry white-peppered herbal stronghold picks up rustic barnyard acridity and floral respite to engage summery sweet ‘n sour citric slumber.

On tap at Ambulance, Old World wining meets New School brewing for juicy Chardonnay-aged farmhouse ale. Belgian candi-sugaring picks up sweet red cherry, cantaloupe and melon tones beyond buttery Chardonnay splendor. Subtle white grape esters mildly embitter dry hop restraint.

On tap at Ambulance, dry citric-embittered saison branches into lightly acidic sour ale styling with its proprietary farmhouse yeast imparting a musty hay-like earthiness upon naturally carbonated calcified limestone minerality and fresh well water crisping. Lemon zest brightens underlying green apple, white peach and lime tartness.

On tap at Growler & Gill, ‘reincarnated’ dry-hopped 2015 saison stays lightly tart as sour lemon-pitted musk and musty brettanomyces-influenced barnyard leathering outdo herbal tropicalia. Delicate grapefruit rind, orange zest and green grape influx picks up faded lemongrass, chamomile and peppercorn whims. Distant pineapple, mango, passionfruit, kumquat and lime illusions flutter softly.

Peculiar straw-paled medium body showcases lacquered cantaloupe sugaring, delicate Belgian yeast spicing and light pilsner-rye malts, but rubbing alcohol whir deadens impact. Overripe peach, banana, nectarine and honeydew illusions contrast mild lemon peel bittering. Cloying cantaloupe adjunct fades as mellow yellow grapefruit tartness, salt-watered lemon rind souring and wispy berry whims gather alongside musty farmhouse-dried grassy hop rusticity. In recess, honeysuckle florality and botanical herbs battle back waxy crayon respite.

On tap at Mahwah Bar & Grill, soothingly smooth summertime saison retains moderate-bodied hazy yellowed hue. Mellow lemon-soured yellow grapefruit zest and delicate mandarin orange wisp pick up lightly spiced white peppering. But weak white wheat backbone and stylistic desiccated farmhouse rusticity barely register.

On tap at Ambulance, gose-like farmhouse ale ‘foraged by Gulf Coast water’ (and brewed in collab w/ Late Start) brings moderate sour-candied lemon tartness to salty limestone pucker and vinous green grape tannins.

On tap at Ambulance, moderate-bodied farmhouse ale contrasts soft tropical fruiting and syrupy honey malting with herbaceous hop astringency. Fluttering banana-skinned plantain snip and fresh-watered celery crisping backend subtle lemony grapefruit wisp at sweet n’ sour citrus finish.

On tap at Ambulance, docile straw-cleared 25th anniversary ‘petite saison’ retains sedate citric-soured herbage, dry pilsner-wheat malting, light white-peppered hop bite and neutral cracker banter. Lemon-seeded bittering upends floral-spiced pineapple, mango and passionfruit tropicalia. In the bottle, crisply clean dry-hopped yellow fruiting gained floral-spiced sweetness and minor barnyard acridity as wispy grapefruit, mandarin orange and lemon peel tartness subsides.

On tap at Poor Henry’s, sashaying smoked saison loses initial peat-smoked campfire insistence to moderate citrus tartness and mildly dry earthen leathering. Creamy wheat syruping contrasts dewy earthen rusticity as sweet orange-peeled grapefruit zest lingers behind. A wayward hybrid bereft of advertised smokiness by arid citrus-induced finish. In the bottle, peculiar ‘amber ale’ with peat-smoked barley and dewy wheat syruping gains Band-aid-like astringency. Buttery phenol residue invades murky orange-candied tartness and dry whiskey nip.