Crisp Ukrainian pale lager tosses sourdough yeast into papery pale malt pasting. Spry lemon spritz provides fizzy tingle.

Standard Russian pale lager brings corn-sugared pastry malts to honeyed dough spine and fizzy hop phenolics like a cheap pale lager. Its sticky glutenous sweetness skirts being cloy – barely. Still, for caramelized suds, it’s OK.