GOLD STAR PREMIUM LAGER January 1, 2009Beers A-Zdark lagerJohn Fortunato Supposed ‘full-bodied’ dark lager has a lot goin’ on. Burnt hop bittering recalls musty red ale; earthen grain insinuation provokes uncomplicated pilsner; and berry-tinged finish glides like dreary summer ale. But murky mix is problematic.