Rustic amber-coppered ‘biere de garde’ opens with gunky saison fruiting and dewy earthen fungi contrasting addictive caramel-toasted vanilla bean creaminess. Green apple tartness, red grape sweetness and navel orange tang counter dry grain bitterness. Flowery hop aromatics usurp warm maple tone, losing resilience and giving way to ashen acridity. Severe alcohol burn may turn off lighter thirsts. French-styled barleywine essence may be overstated.