On tap at Ambulance, loosely defined Berliner Weiss brings tart lemon-soured pucker to the fore above musty barnyard-dried straw wheat leathering. Vinous white-wined cider acidity, sharp green apple pucker, oaken cherry snip and mild peach-mango caress pick up salty limestone acridity. Sessionable citric-soured moderation works as stylish crossover for lighter thirsts previously apprehensive about ‘wild ale’ styling.