On tap at Benny’s Beer Barrel, ‘rowdy’ pale ale lets subtle candi-sugared Belgian yeast further sweeten tropical mango-peach-pineapple punch above lacquered pine hop oiling, sedate floral notions and pale rye wheat malts. In the backend, phenol lemon-peeled herbage merges with mildly oxidized astringency. Not as untamed as advertised, but enjoyably fruit-juiced.